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From Biomass-Derived p-Hydroxycinnamic Acids to Novel Sustainable and Non-Toxic Phenolics-Based UV-Filters: A Multidisciplinary Journey

Abstract : Although organic UV-filters are extensively used in cosmetics to protect consumers from the deleterious effects of solar UV radiation-exposure, they suffer from some major drawbacks such as their fossil origin and their toxicity to both humans and the environment. Thus, finding sustainable and non-toxic UV-filters is becoming a topic of great interest for the cosmetic industry. A few years ago, sinapoyl malate was shown to be a powerful naturally occurring UV-filter. Building on these findings, we decided to design and optimize an entire value chain that goes from biomass to innovative biobased and nontoxic lignin-derived UV-filters. This multidisciplinary approach relies on: 1) The production of phenolic synthons using either metabolite extraction from biomass or their bioproduction through synthetic biology/fermentation/in stream product recovery; 2) their functionalization using green chemistry to access sinapoyl malate and analogues; 3) the study of their UV-filtering activity, their photostability, their biological properties; and 4) their photodynamics. This mini-review aims at demonstrating that combining biotechnology, green chemistry, downstream process and photochemistry is a powerful approach to transform biomass and, in particular lignins, into high valueadded innovative UV-filters.
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https://hal-agroparistech.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03722676
Contributor : Amandine Flourat Connect in order to contact the contributor
Submitted on : Wednesday, July 13, 2022 - 3:00:50 PM
Last modification on : Friday, August 5, 2022 - 2:38:11 PM

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Benjamin Rioux, Jeanne Combes, Jack M Woolley, Natércia D N Rodrigues, Matthieu M Mention, et al.. From Biomass-Derived p-Hydroxycinnamic Acids to Novel Sustainable and Non-Toxic Phenolics-Based UV-Filters: A Multidisciplinary Journey. Frontiers in Chemistry, Frontiers Media, 2022, 10, ⟨10.3389/fchem.2022.886367⟩. ⟨hal-03722676⟩

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