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Diethyl sinapate-grafted cellulose nanocrystals as nature-inspired UV filters in cosmetic formulations

Abstract : Inspired by nature’s photoprotection mechanisms, we report an effective UV-blocking nanomaterial based on diethyl sinapate-grafted cellulose nanocrystals (CNC-DES). The colloidal stability and UV-blocking performance of CNC-DES in aqueous glycerol (a common humectant in petroleum-free cosmetic formulations) and in a commercially available moisturizing cream were studied. Grafting the water-insoluble DES onto CNCs renders it dispersible in these water-based formulations, thanks to the excellent water-dispersibility of CNC nanoparticles. Glycerol dispersions containing 0.1 to 1.5 wt% CNC-DES display very high UV-blocking activity owing to the anti-UV DES moieties anchored onto CNCs. A facial cream blended with 1.5 wt% CNC-DES exhibits an SPF of 5.03, which is higher than a commercially available sunscreen with the same active ingredient concentration (SPF = 3.84). DPPH radical scavenging assay also showed the antioxidant potential of CNC-DES, albeit coinciding with a significant reduction in antioxidant activity after grafting DES onto CNCs. Cytotoxicity measurements revealed the CNC-DES not to cause significant cytotoxicity to murine fibroblast cells after 24 h of exposure. Overall, CNC-DES exhibits strong anti-UV and antioxidant properties and is water-dispersible, biocompatible, non-greasy, and lightweight. This study demonstrates the exceptional potential of DES-grafted CNCs as nature-inspired UV filters in the next generation of cosmetic formulations, including those for sensitive skins
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https://hal-agroparistech.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03517370
Contributor : Amandine Flourat Connect in order to contact the contributor
Submitted on : Saturday, February 26, 2022 - 1:58:40 PM
Last modification on : Thursday, October 27, 2022 - 3:46:14 PM

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D.J. Mendoza, M. Maliha, V.S. Raghuwanshi, C. Browne, L.M.M. Mouterde, et al.. Diethyl sinapate-grafted cellulose nanocrystals as nature-inspired UV filters in cosmetic formulations. Materials Today Bio, 2021, 12, pp.100126. ⟨10.1016/j.mtbio.2021.100126⟩. ⟨hal-03517370⟩

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